Our flight to Milano didn't leave until dinnertime, so we crammed in one last outing near Stazzo Chivoni before heading back to the airport in Olbia. Leo drove us on a twisting, one-track road to see a grove of Sardinia's ancient olive trees about 15 km away, where we met Marzia and some of their friends. The 4,000 year old tree is now roped off. When this was private property people would climb the tree and carve their initials in it. A nearby tree, about 2,000 years old, is accessible. The ranger told us that the branches grow downward toward the ground, forming a natural shelter. 250 sheep could take refuge in this outdoor "room." These are the original heirloom olives, from which cultivated olives are derived. The fruits on these trees were tiny, about 3/8" long, and mostly pit. The trees are on a hillside overlooking Lake Liscia. Whether we were under the boughs or out in the meadow, the entire place had a fresh, earthy aroma that was somehow fa...
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